The word mastery kept coming to mind after eating the croissant. “Comprehensive knowledge or skill in a subject or accomplishment” and “Control or superiority of someone or something” are two definitions of the word. The Wake and Bake tour has spent the last two weeks searching for a croissant, that exceeds all expectation, that can merge the sensual and the moment, as if one were experiencing something for the first time, that meets the definition. There are many bread makers out there but few have really achieved the designation of master baker. The croissant is a craft that really separates the apprentice from the master.
It was Monday two weeks ago. The morning air was heavy and misty clouds floated over the Housatonic river. The sound of rushing water, from the every day rain, greeted me as I got out of my car. Most bakeries are closed on Monday but the Berkshire Mountain Bakery is open seven days each week. When you visit the Housatonic location you pull up to an old brick factory with a simple sign. There is a man walking alone, with the hills of the Berkshires behind him, carrying his authentic, natural, wholesome and delicious loaves. That simple pledge is what you find in over eight thousand loaves and eight thousand tummies each week.
The day old bread is outside in the shed as you walk up to the screen door. When you step inside you are struck by the simplicity of the shop. Bread loaves sit simply on the shelf behind the counter. Cherry Pecan, Chocolate Bread, Peasant French, Baguettes and more are made using the same process our ancient ancestors gifted to us. In a word, it’s all about the fermentation baby! They use freshly milled whole grain flour and allow time for the natural process to do the magic. What else do you call the sudden expansion of flour, water and air to create something so healthy for all of mankind. The owner, Richard Bourdon, said in a 2016 Netflix special, “that a kernel of grain has all the ingredients we need in life”. Truly, “I need a miracle every day and “sometimes the light is shining on me”. Coming to BMB for anything is a little miracle every day.
The croissants and cookies rest in a simple case waiting for your purchase. I grabbed the croissant for the ride back to town and a cherry pecan bread for the house. That first bite of the croissant rocked me like a Verrilli’s cannoli spudnut. The outside is crisp and the crumbs of the crust were falling over my clothes. The inside of the croissant is light with enticing layers of flour and butter. Nothing about the interior is dense or will stick to anything inside your mouth. The smells and tastes stay with you for some time. Even the taste of sweetness subtly emerges minutes after your previous bite. Your olfactory delight, similar to the reward of smelling honeysuckle, is activated when you consume these quality grains. That high remains with you as a real memory.
When I returned to New Jersey the Wake and Bake tour was determined to find a croissant of equal value. Synchronicity struck again as Cousin Mordy had a gig at the Blue Note Sunday afternoon. Brown eyed Susan and I made our way into Soho early and the city was barely awake. Summer is the best time to visit the city when you live in New Jersey. You never have to compete with the locals for food, shows or parking spaces. New York has this reputation for Croissants, Cronuts and Cruffins. Pistachio, Strawberry and Guava are being used in very original ways. We visited the highly regarded shops in Soho and Noho. There are some amazing treats.
We visited Dominique Ansel and sampled the croissant and their monthly cronut. Did people really get in line for those cronuts? We visited the Lafayette Cafe’ on Lafayette and walked away disappointed with the croissant but blown away by the cafe. It is a New York treasure. We continued east and parked near St. Marks church. The homeless crisis in New York is very evident, seemingly everywhere we went Sunday, and it is heartbreaking to witness.
We visited Le Fournil and La Cabra on Second Ave. Both had really good croissants but La Cabra probably had the best natural croissant we sampled that morning. We found the most informal bakery and most creative morning croissants and assorted morning delights at Supermoon Bakehouse, on the east side, at 120 Rivington. They featured the rainbow pride croissant, served with a jasmine flower, filled with strawberry jam. The Pastelito de Guayaba, filled with guava jam and cream cheese, was sweetly spectacular. (Supermoon Croissant below)
We headed over to the Blue Note disappointed but certainly satiated and sat down to watch in real time what mastery really means. Three men who have never played together sat down for an hour to discuss the songs that they were going to play. Some liner notes were shared for guidance and then they picked up their insturments and entertained seventy five people for ninety minutes on a humid, hot summer Sunday. Ron Oswanski was mesmerizing on the Hammond. His mysterious baselines rose from busy feet and an invisible left hand. Ian Fromer was outstanding on the drums. Their seamless playing supported the wonderful songs of Mordy Ferber. His guitar mastery is truly on another level that most players only dream of achieving.
That level of mastery should be lauded and applauded as a light to aspire to every day. Baking, Creating and Doing demand the same thing. Everybody knows their own best. We all may never get to the level of the sensei but it is the journey that is important. One must seek that highest level of achievement in whatever path one might choose. This week I met with JR who is one of those people who see the world with wonder and direction. He is a master builder and Renaissance man whose quiet shining light reminds me that mastery comes in many forms. Jon shares many of the same characteristics as that master baker Richard Bourdon. They are completely invested in the entire process of creation and the physical labor that is required to realize the vision.
Simply they share the simple belief in the natural process, living and love living in the moment and a simple faith that they are here to make this world a little better place. This all came together for me today. It happened listening to “Jack Straw”, live from Barton Hall, 1978 (enclosed below)and listening to the searing guitar leads from Jerry Garcia. The absolute stunning tonal brilliance of his guitar struck me so emotionally that tears fell filled with love and sorrow, a perfect moment of sensual expression. His mastery of his instrument and the joy with which he sang and played is what makes him legendary. That joy that he can raise in a person’s heart is immeasurable and is quite like the joy of sharing the magical croissants of the Great Barrington Bakery with yourself or with your family. The Wake and Bake family hopes you can find your own croissant.
PS. The Wake and Bake tour highly recommends newly rebranded Artie’s in Maplewood for your best local croissant. Formerly known as Arturo’s, in downtown Maplewood and The Bread Stand, the owners closed both locations and opened this wonderful bakery and restaurant for the community. It is stunning and going to be around for a long time. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Croissant from Artie’s.
.Peace to Everyone
“Sometimes the light is shining on me. Sometimes i can barely see. Lately it occurs to me, what a long strange trip its been”. RH
I read a lot and finding one of your offerings in my feed is always welcome. I am reminded of the love of food and other things instilled in the lucky enough to have known Richard Sax. Am I right that your pic shows you eating a croissant while writing about Jerry Garcia and reading about Taylor Swift? I'm not able to put those two musicians in my brain at the same time. I am sad, though, that you express disappointment if you do not find perfection in a croissant.